Although it’s sometimes immediately obvious that a bra you’re trying on doesn’t fit right, there are less obvious signs that a bra is doing absolutely nothing for your shape, or worse, is doing lots of things wrong. Even a bra that ‘feels right’ initially may not be giving you proper support or enhancing your shape.

Familiarity with our Perfect Fit checklist will help you choose bras that flatter and support. Take a few minutes to understand what a perfect fitting bra should look and feel like, and to recognize whether your bra is the wrong size for you.

Smooth fitting cups
If you don’t fill out the cups, you need a smaller size. If you are “overflowing” the cups, try a larger cup size or a style with a fuller cup design. The edges of the cups should also lie flat against your breast. If there is a gap (especially with padded bras), you should go down a cup size.

Center panel lays flat against your breastbone.
If it does not, this could be a sign that your cup size is too small, or the panel is not large enough to accommodate the separation between your breasts. Note: Minimizers tend to not rest against the breastbone, and this is fine.

The bottom of the bra in the front and back is parallel to the floor or slightly lower in the back.
The lower edge of the band should anchor below the shoulder blades. The lower the back fits, the better the support.

Straps stay put and don’t dig into your shoulders.
Consider a different bra style with straps closer together if straps keep falling. A smaller band size should reduce the strap’s strain on your shoulders.

Cup fabric should be stable
The fabric should give support as well as a good breast shape.

An underwire should encircle your breast.
It shouldn’t poke, protrude or pinch.

Good breast uplift
The apex of your breasts should be mid-way between your shoulders and your elbows. Uplifted breasts look more youthful and give a slimming appearance.

Breasts face the front and do not sag or fall to the sides.
This breast position allows you to freely swing your arms.

A finger can be run under the front band.
Your bra should be snug, but not too tight. If it’s tight, you need a larger band size or a looser hook placement.

Feels comfortable when sitting.
Our ribcages tend to expand when we are seated. If you’re not sure your band is big enough, this quick test will answer your concern.

Consider an alteration.
Still not the perfect fit? We alter our clothes for a better fit, why not a bra? One woman in our office really measures to a 35 band size. She therefore buys a 36D and has a dart put in at the sides.

An important point when zeroing in on your correct bra size. An important point when zeroing in on your correct bra size is that when you try on a bra and go one cup size larger, you are keeping the band size the same and increasing your bust line by 1″.
However, when you go up a band size (keeping the cup size the same) you are increasing your band circumference by 2″ AND increasing your bust line circumference by 2″ as well. The point here is that changing a cup size within a band size is fine-tuning your bra size. Changing a band size is a much more significant size change.

Elements of the Perfect Fit – Band

The back and front of your bra band should be level and parallel to the floor when you look at yourself from the side in a mirror. If the band is too tight, digs into your flesh or is just plain uncomfortable, it’s too small. Signs that your band size is too big include breasts falling out from the bottom of your bra and your bra back riding up. A correctly sized band will fit firmly around you and not ride up in the back.

The Band Test
Try this little test (see the sidebar).

A new bra should be able to pass this test with the clasp on the loosest fitting – this allows you to tighten the bra as it stretches with wear and washing. Try to avoid buying a bra where the best fit is the bra’s tightest setting. My suggestion is to have a bra that fits on its loosest or at least its middle fastening position.

Elements of the Perfect Fit – Cup
Your bra cups should be large enough to prevent breast tissue from bulging or spilling out over the neckline or armhole edges. You’ll know if your bra cups are too large if they have wrinkling, or are clearly larger than both of your breasts.

Elements of the Perfect Fit – Underwires

Your breasts have a natural “crease line” where the underwire should fit comfortably against your ribcage. The diameter of your underwire is too small if the underarm end is poking breast tissue, or catches your arm as it moves forward. The diameter of your underwire is too large if the underarm end is poking into your armpit. The best underwire for you is one that encircles your breast, giving you a more rounded and defined look. Women short in stature usually find that underwires poke them under their arms. An instant solution is to select demi cup bras – the wires are shorter and thus will not poke.

Elements of the Perfect Fit – Center Panel
center panel bra It’s best if the center panel between the cups of your bra sits firmly against your chest (sternum). However, there are some exceptions. Women with full breasts close together may not be able to achieve a center panel touching their sternum. The center panel of Wire-free (soft cup) bras may also not sit quite as firmly against your chest.

Elements of the Perfect Fit – Straps
Elements of the Perfect Fit – Straps Shoulder straps on a bra should rest flat on your shoulders. They shouldn’t cause dents or fall off your shoulders. Shoulder straps are designed to carry minimal breast weight (10% or less). If your shoulders have dents from your straps, then your straps are working too hard – you probably need a smaller band size to give your bra more support.

• If your straps keep slipping, there are several possible causes: the placement of the straps on your bra may be too wide. Wide-set straps are a popular look right now and are common on push-up bras due to the fact that wide-set straps tend to put breast tissue inward to maximize cleavage. If you’re wearing push up bras and are having this problem, you need to find another style.

• If your cup size is too large, there will not be enough breast tissue to fill out the top of your cup and this will cause your straps to slide down your shoulders.

• The straps could also be sewn too far apart on the back of your bra.

• If the strap in front and/or back is attached to a ring this ring allows the strap to swivel and could cause the strap to fall off your shoulder.

For most women, one breast is larger. In many cases one breast may even be one cup-size larger than the other. In such situations, you should choose the cup size that fits your larger breast. The smaller breast can be increased in size with supplemental padding. Also, a molded cup bra will hide the fact and make both sides look the same in size.

As the band size of a bra increases, so does the actual cup size of a bra. Therefore a D cup in a 38D is going to be smaller than a D cup in a 42D. For example, if your band is too small, but your cup fits well, go from a 38D to a 40C to maintain a similar cup size

If you have a small back, buy a bra that fits in the cups, and then have your bra altered to remove the excess in the back and/or sides

If you have a broad back, buy a bra that fits in the cups, and then purchase an extender to increase the size of the back of your bra.

Big busted women, after fastening a bra, should lift up their arms to see if any breast tissue falls out from under the bottom of the cup. If this happens, your cup size is probably a size too small.

Like new shoes, a new bra will probably be a little snug at first. As the spandex relaxes, the bra will become a little looser on the body. This is also why you want to rest your bras for one day in-between wearings – give the bra a chance to return to its relaxed shape, and time to air out.

If a bra is put in the dryer with high heat, it will affect the steel underwire which has been tempered (heat set) into shape. This could change the shape of your underwire. Also, if you don’t put your bras in a lingerie bag, they could get caught on something in the washer or dryer and cause the underwire to bend and possibly break. It is never a good idea to put any lingerie in the dryer – the heat breaks down the elasticity.

Bra Styles to Determine the Perfect Fit

When trying to determine your correct bra size, which bra styles are the best to try on?

Well, I asked this question of many of our manufacturers. What I learned is that certain bras are better than others for determining your accurate size. All the bras listed below share the attributes of full coverage and no padding. It’s also no surprise that all these bra styles receive accolades in our Customer Reviews.

This Wacoal bra is the best fitting bra on the market. If you have fit issues, this is the bra for you! It was even used on the Oprah Show to determine proper bra size.

This is the plus-size bra used by Chantelle fitters when trying to determine a woman’s correct bra size because it fits well on so many women.

A great bra to use to determine your correct size if you are a full figure woman. This bra has great fit.

The cups in this bra are made with a stretch foam that shapes to you and moves with you. An extremely comfortable bra that fits many figure types.

This full cup bra has a three- section cup for good shape and excellent support. Full coverage bra has luxurious textronic lace in the top cup to give a lighter look to the garment and provide maximum comfort.

Restricted stretch shoulder straps make this Goddess lingerie comfortable enough for all day wear.

Natori bra fitters feel this bra is great for determining bra size and gives a great fit to most.
A word about in-store bra fitters:
Many retail stores now offer “bra fitting” services. As well-meaning as many of these women are, you should be the ultimate arbiter in determining your proper size. The truth is that women claiming to be “Bra Fitters” may not always be providing you thorough fitting information.

Most retail lingerie stores do not stock all styles in all sizes. A Bra Fitter who works for a lingerie store has the primary goal of selling you merchandise. If she doesn’t have your size or the best brand for your figure, she may encourage you to consider something simply because she has it in stock. The goal of a Bra Fitter is to make the sale – even if it’s not necessarily the best choice for you. Our HerRoom customer service staff has heard many women complain that they were talked into another size simply because the store did not stock the size they really needed.

There are also different opinions about how a bra should fit. Many fitters suggest band sizes that are too small or a different size from what would be a proper fit. You look great in the dressing room, but after a day of wear, you never want to see that bra again. The solution is to know how a proper bra should fit and feel. Then, you won’t find yourself the not-so-proud-owner of an ill-fitting bra.

Sometimes the best bra fitter to help you is…
you
.

IS YOU BRA THE WRONG SIZE?

Symptom: The Bra cups pucker.
Reason: Your cup size is too large
Solution: Go down one cup size (e.g.: from a D cup to a C cup in the same band size) or tighten your bra straps.
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Breasts are bulging out over the top of the bra Symptom: Breasts are “bulging” out over the top of the bra.
Reason Cup size is either too small or cut too low for the size of your breasts.
Solution: Try going up a cup size (e.g.: from a B cup to a C cup) or choose a bra style that has more fabric in the cup for example, a full coverage cup rather than a demi cup.
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One cup fits fine – the other cup puckers

Symptom: One cup fits fine – the other cup puckers.
Reason: One breast is larger than the other (very common).
Solution: Almost all women have one breast larger than the other. Sometimes the difference is noticeable; most often it’s not. If your difference is significant, you have several choices. You can purchase a bra with stretch fabric in the cup. The size difference will then not be noticeable. You can also try a bra with fiberfill, light padding or a molded cup bra that will hide the size difference. Further, try adjusting the straps so that the larger breast cup is looser than the smaller breast cup. And, you can purchase a padded bra with removable “cookies,” and take the cookie out of the side with the larger breast.
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Rashes and redness under breasts Symptom: Rashes and redness under breasts.
Reason: Your cup is too small, your underwire is not in the breast crease, and your bra does not give enough support to lift your breasts off your ribcage. Consequently, your breast skin is overlapping and rubbing on your ribcage skin and irritation is occurring.
Solution: Increase your cup size until you find the right underwire that fits within your breast crease comfortably. Choose a bra that has a band on the bottom. This band will give additional support and insure your breast tissue does not come in contact with your ribcage skin. Select a bra with a supportive cup design such as 2 to 3 section cups, contains support panels at the bottom, along the sides and possibly all the way around your breast. Finally, consider a wire-free bra with a band and good supporting cup design.
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Correct size, but breast tissue near underarm is falling out Symptom: Correct size, but breast tissue near underarm is falling out.
Reason: You have the wrong style bra.
Solution: Triangle bra styles and other skimpy bras are probably not for you. Such styles are more for women who don’t need much bra support. Remember, not all bra styles will work on your figure – even if they come in your size.
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Some bras just don’t look right
Symptom: Some bras just don’t look right.
Reason: Not all bras do all things well. A full cup bra may look like it’s strangling you. A demi cup may look too skimpy. Wide set bra straps might make your cups gap, padding may give you lumps and bumps. No one can wear all bra styles.
Solution: Assess your figure and see what category you fall into: petite, full figure, plus size, etc. Then, find the manufacturers that cater to your figure type and work with their styles. Like your favorite shoe brands and jeans brands, you should also find your favorite lingerie brands.
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Several Bra Sizes fit me Symptom: Several Bra Sizes fit me.
Reason: You have different bra sizes, because different manufacturers make your bras. Your breast size can change around your period causing you to need a different size bra. You do not have clear and stringent bra fitting requirements for yourself.
Solution: Your bra size should be the same among one manufacturer’s many styles. Many women buy a bra style they like in two sizes – one size for regular days, and one size for period days. This is a great idea if you have significant breast fluctuation. Don’t suffer during your 7 days by stuffing yourself into a bra that’s temporarily too small. You also need to fully understand what a good fitting bra looks like on you and not compromise. If a bra’s fit, comfort and/or shape is not right, don’t buy it.
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Underwires pop out of bra Symptom: Underwires pop out of bra.
Reason: Your band size is probably too large. If your band is moving around your body, this friction wears down the casing covering of your underwire and ultimately causes a hole for the wire to pop out. In a really bad fit, this hole can occur within a matter of hours. The fabric sewn over underwires inside a bra, called channeling, is sometimes made of cotton. Washing in hot water can shrink the channeling and force the underwire to pop out. The manufacturer may not have sewn enough stitches to close the underwire channel and the underwire has been able to pop out.
Solution: Try a smaller band size and a larger cup size (e.g. go from a 42D to a 40DD) and see if your bra stays in place better. Never wash your lingerie in hot water or put in a dryer. If your wire popped out due to a sewing error, it can be fixed with an alteration.
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Underwire is uncomfortable and poking under the arm Symptom: Underwire is uncomfortable and poking under the arm.
Reason: The cup size is too small and places the underwire right on the tender breast tissue and too far forward on the body. The style of the bra is not providing a wide enough cup to support your breast, or the design of the bra is placing the cups too close together.
Solution: Try going up a cup size and see if the underwire fits more comfortably (e.g.: 36C to a 36D). Or try a different style bra with fuller cup coverage and/or a larger center panel in front. A large-breasted woman can still experience poking on the sides, even in a bra that is the correct size. Therefore, she should look for a bra that has side support panels. These panels will push your breast tissue towards the front and away from under your arms. Also, if this problem is occurring with a minimizer, you should probably stop wearing a minimizer. A minimizer works by flattening your breasts and moving the tissue more under your arms and up your chest. Too much tissue under the arms will get in the way of comfortable movement.
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Underwire is poking the armpit Symptom: Underwire is poking the armpit.
Reason: You are probably petite in build, and/or have a short torso, or have breasts that are high-set on your ribcage. Petite women have this problem because average bras are not made for women with short torsos. Therefore, the underwire is too tall and pokes into their armpit.
Solution: Consider a demi style bra, or a bra style with less cup coverage and thus shorter underwires. This shorter underwire should reduce poking. Also, consider petite bras. HerRoom offers a great selection of petite bras. They are designed to have closer cups, shorter wires, and shorter bra straps.
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Underwires tip away from body between the breasts Symptom: Underwires tip away from body between the breasts.
Reason: Your bra cups are not deep enough and/or the center panel is too narrow at its bottom. The underwire is not sitting in your “breast crease” and therefore is not laying flat against your chest. Your bra may also be a minimizer.
Solution: Try on a larger cup size or select a bra with a different shaped center panel. Your breasts may also be unusually wide and not rest in underwires well. Consider wearing a wire-free bra, HerRoom has a large assortment. Minimizer underwire bras work by compressing breast tissue. One side effect is that sometimes the center wires tip outwards. Try another minimizer or forgo a minimizer all together.
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Can’t find an underwire that fits Symptom: Can’t find an underwire that fits.
Reason: Your breast shape may not be suited for underwires. Some women have breast tissue that extends around their chest and under their arms. An underwire is going to press into breast tissue and feel very uncomfortable.
Solution: There are many wire-free bras on the market now. Forego an underwire and find comfort in a wire-free bra.
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Breasts are too big Symptom: Breasts are too big.
Reason: No problem. You just haven’t found the right style bra. Wearing the wrong style bra that does not have proper support and does not elevate your breasts to their proper position will make you look heavier and bigger than you are.
Solution Full figured women have way more options today. Several brands at HerRoom cater to the full figured woman. Look at Lunaire, Freya, Elila, Goddess and Fantasie bras. All have great support and great fit for the full-figured woman.
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Same bra size as friend, yet can’t wear the same bras
Same bra size as friend, yet can’t wear the same bras Symptom: Same bra size as friend, yet can’t wear the same bras.
Reason: Breasts are unique. Though two women may measure to the same bra size, one’s breasts may be higher-set on their ribcage, spaced farther apart, or could have a wider back.
Solution: Understand your unique shape variations and learn what bra styles and bra features work best for you.
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Sagging Breasts-Before
Sagging Breasts-After Symptom: Sagging Breasts.
Reason: Your bra does not have enough support, the cup fabric is too stretchy and flimsy for your breasts, or your band size is too large. You may also have heavy breasts that are becoming pendulous due to lack of proper support.
Solution: The apex of your breasts should fall half way between your elbow and shoulder. To get there, you need a bra with good support. Features of great supporting bras include a 3-section cup, support panels built into the cup, a band all the way around the bottom of the bra, and 3 or more hooks in the back. Avoid single layer molded cup bras. Going down a band size and up a cup size may also solve this problem (e.g. 38C to a 36D).
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Stretch marks are visible running up and down the breasts Symptom: Stretch marks are visible running up and down the breasts.
Reason: Your breast tissue is breaking down because you are not wearing a bra, or are wearing a non-supporting bra. Breakdown of the breast tissue is causing your breasts to sag, creating stretch marks. This problem can occur on small- breasted women as well.
Solution: Wear a well-constructed, supportive bra during the day and a firm sports bra for exercising. These stretch marks will never go away, but wearing supportive bras will reduce or eliminate further damage.
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Center bra panel does not rest on your sternum Symptom: Center bra panel does not rest on your sternum.
Reason: Cup size is too small, your bra is a minimizer or a soft cup style, or you’re not wearing your bra correctly.
Solution: Re-arrange your breast tissue in the cup and see if the fit improves. If this doesn’t solve the problem, try on the bra in the next larger cup size (e.g. go from a 42D to a 42DD). If your bra is wire-free and you’re large breasted, the center panel will probably not touch. This is okay. Minimizer bra styles also tend to push away from the sternum. If you’re large breasted and your breasts are naturally close together, your center panel will probably not touch your sternum. Again, this is all right.
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Center bra panel has a gap Symptom: Center bra panel has a gap.
Reason: Style of bra does not work with your figure.
Solution: Try a different style bra or have the bra altered.
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ra rides up in back Symptom: Bra rides up in back.
Reason: Your band size is too large.
Solution: Try hooking your bra on a tighter setting and loosening the straps. If this doesn’t work, your band size is too big and you need to buy a smaller band size (e.g.: from a 36C to a 34D). If your cups fit fine, in order to keep the same cup size when you go down on the band size, you must go up a cup size as our example shows.
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Bra rides up in back and my bra size is correct Symptom: Bra rides up in back and my bra size is correct.
Reason: Your torso does not get narrower at the waist and in fact might be wider, and /or your breasts are large and heavy. Both these body characteristics predispose your bra back to riding up.
Solution: Make sure your bra back has the leotard back strap styling, 4-7 hook back closure, and wide elastic sewn along the bottom edge. Also, when you put on your bra, make sure your bra back is pulled down under your back bones – this will also help anchor your bra.
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Bra is uncomfortable – cutting and pinching with every movement Symptom: Bra is uncomfortable – cutting and pinching with every movement.
Reason: Your bra is hooked too tightly, your band size is too small, or the sides of your bra are too narrow for your figure type.
Solution: Try hooking your bra on a looser setting or adding a back extender accessory. It may also be that the bra style is inappropriate for your figure. Consider a style with wider sides and a three-hook closure in back.
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Shoulder Straps keep falling off shoulders Symptom: Shoulder Straps keep falling off shoulders.
Reason: If tightening the strap is not working, the problem could be that your cup size is too big. You’re not filling out the top of your cup and this is causing your straps to slide down your shoulders. You are using bra extenders which are basically causing the same problem as a band being too big. When putting on your bra, you are not making certain your bra’s back is pulled down and under your shoulder blades. Your band may not be tight enough or a size too large and the straps in the back are thus too close to the edge of your shoulders. The bra style could also be the problem -wide-set straps are very popular. If you have small or sloping shoulders, this style is not for you.
Solution: Here are several solutions. Try your bra style in a smaller cup size or select a different style bra. Try wearing your bra on the tightest back hooks – and make sure you have pulled the bra down in back so that it is level with your bra front. Racer-back bras and leotard back bras are great solutions for falling straps. If you’re using bra extenders, remove them and buy the bra in a larger band size and one cup size smaller to maintain the same cup fit. Go down a band size and up a cup size and see if your bra fits better. There are also accessories that help to keep your straps in place. Visit our accessory department to see a selection.
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Shoulder Straps dig into shoulders Symptom: Shoulder Straps dig into shoulders.
Reason: Your bra is not giving you enough support, so your shoulder straps are being forced to do too much work, or your straps are too tight or too narrow. Straps should carry no more than 10% of the breast’s weight.
Solution: If you drop your shoulder straps off your shoulders, your bra should stay in place. If this is not the case, your band size is too large and you should go down a band size and up a cup size – if your cups fit correctly (e.g. from a 42D to a 40DD or 40E). Bra straps should never create dents in your shoulders; straps should carry only minimal breast weight. A wider bra strap is also a good idea for breast sizes larger